When Dr. Murray (Uncle Paul) is on away from home, he writes letters to his nieces Heidi (6) and Morag (2). A letter from Rwanda is unlikely to get home so he is posting them here instead so the girls will get them and others might enjoy them.
3/10/2019, 10.00pm CAT. Good News Guest House, Gikondo district, Kigali, Rwanda
My very dear friends Heidi and Morag.
We had an early start this morning – on the bus at 6.00am with breakfast to be consumed while travelling. The reason: we were off on safari. Akagera National Park is on the East side of Rwanda on the border with Tanzania. We traveled for 3 h 18 mins on a mixture of tarmac and dirt track roads to arrive at the park at 9.18am. We visited the facilities and Ben was unimpressed with the privacy screen made out of sticks. There were so many gaps that it might have well have been not there!
At the gate we met our guide, Justice who was absolutely charming. He talked us through the map of the park and explained that it has a natural border of a river in the East and a solar powers electric fence in the West. There are guard houses along the fence with 4 guards in each one. Every so often 2 guards swap with another two and inspect the fence for holes due to animals getting out of humans (poachers) trying to get in. Gavin bought a hat made of banana leaves in the gift shop and spent the rest of the trip looking very stylish.
We set off through the park in the bus and very quickly spotted warthogs. The cry of “Pumba” went through the bus and I considered as to whether these ones were as flatulent as their fictional compadre. Some beautiful giraffes followed – nibbling away at the tops of the trees that their long necks allow them to reach. The zebras looked like they were from Mars and we learnt that each has a unique set of stripes – a “fingerprint” if you will.
We saw baboons grooming each other and some very cute baby baboons riding on the backs of their parents. While we were watching them I had to swat a tsetse fly that was buzzing round the bus. When I hit it blood came out and stained the back of the book I swatted it with – hence the name of this post!
We had lunch next to some hippos who were sunbathing by a lake. Apparently they have quite sensitive skin and can sunburn easily so we offered up some Factor 50. Needless to say, Justus declined the offer on the hippo’s behalf. At one point a hippo started to come towards us so a concerned looking Justus instructed us to move. When a park ranger tells you to do something you’d be extremely foolish to do otherwise.
Justus was the world expert at spotting creatures in bushes and that was epitomised when he spotted….an elephant! It was quite far away and quite hidden but a side track took us to where it was. We spent a long time looking at it through the bushes before it took the decision to come right towards us. Folk on the bus were swearing blind that it was posing for us as we had such an incredible view. I did detect it had a cheeky smile so perhaps they were right. It was so beautiful and so graceful and quite the contrast to my previous elephant experience in Thailand where they were captive. Not one I would ever repeat – these animals deserve to be wild and should be left to be so.
Later on we saw a herd of wild buffalo and I was reminded of how I refer to you when you’re running through the house.
Eventually it came time to leave the park. It had been a long and bumpy day but well worth it! We arrived back to beef, sweet tatties, rice and peas. Then we crashed out.
I remain as ever your very good and loving friend.
Paul ♫ xx
Our first visit of the day was the Nduba community on the North East side of Kigali. Here there was a group of people who are genocide survivors who, in a similar way to the ladies we met yesterday, have formed a collective for support and honey making (of all things). We arrived to the most beautiful singing. They were all Christian songs – you mat have figured out that most people in Rwanda are quite religious and the majority of those a Christian. The Christian Religion would have been brought here by the original missionaries who would have pre-emoted the colonisation of Rwanda. There was a book of the words so I managed to sing along and even interject some harmonies. I’ve always loved harmony singing.
After the rain finished we headed to the Comfort Babies project. David joined us and explained that many of the mums had been sex workers and a number infected with HIV. Comfort has helped them set up a community with a mother who can keep an eye on them. Time and again we find that the ethos is of friendship and mutual support. We introduced ourselves and when they found out I was a musician, they asked me to play. I asked them if they wanted a fast or a slow tune. They asked for both so I played “Stan Chapman’s” and “Frank’s Reel”. They then led the dancing which became quite a party.
It was so lovely to see some of the more reticent members of the group firing on to the dance floor and throwing some shapes. We then just chatted and played with the babies before handing over some of our knitted baby clothes. I hate to stereotype but I do think that Scottish grannies are the best knitters. I had to drag Esha and Hannah away from the babies. Hannah is training to be a nursery teacher and I think she’ll be amazing.
So today was an experience and a half, and one I’ll never forget. We first went to the survivors group which was amazing. They sang us a beautiful Rwandan song and continued to go into another. We then introduced ourselves, and they gathered us together to perform a Rwandan song, including our group where most folk struggle with proper English, but we gave it a good go and it sounded okay. We had a very moving testimony with all these stories that we get told there is the same amazing themes of togetherness, family beyond blood and all forms of strength, and it’s wonderful to hear.
Onto the Comfort Babies. Before we got there I was apprehensive as I am okay with kids and children but not so much babies and toddlers. I seem to have one of those faces that makes them cry. It started off the usual way, we introduced our-selves and had a wee sing song, which I loved today, I was getting right into it having a wee dance. It’s quite contagious when they all get going. When we sat down I was trying to get one of the toddlers to laugh and realise that I wasn’t an alien, but with that I got no where and gave up. So, after we all moved about and mixed up, to my surprise the cutest, smiliest wee boy came waddling up to me with his toy guitar and we were in-separable. Even Esha couldn’t bring us apart.
We sat down together and had a wee play and he showed me his guitar, and any other kid who tried to take it nearly got a kicking. He loved his guitar. Time flew in and our day care services were forced to an end. We took some photos but the inevitable happened, he started to cry. I looked about looking for mum, who I had no clue who she was, but thankfully she showed up. With despair of making him cry and not being able to say goodbye I headed to the bus.
Everyone was in moods caused by separation issues from their new adopted kids, but just as I thought my luck was running out I saw my wee baby getting carried up to the bus. I sprinted out my seat and of the bus. The boy genuinely reached out for me, my face just lit up with joy as did his, but time flew in and his mother wanted to head off. He refused. He just gripped me tighter and my heart just filled with joy. So she did what any parent does when their kids are refusing, “okay I’ll go without you” but even that didn’t work. He was happy in my arms, but to my disappointment he had to go. We basically had to peel him off me and he went back into his mothers arms with a sad expression and a frown. Thinking back on it now I should of just tried to smuggle him on the bus, because I miss his wee face like mad.
Today was interesting. I thoroughly enjoyed learning about the different culture in Rwanda, for example: the trades they learn and their school space. It was fascinating to see the difference between education at home and the education they have here. I think it helped me to appreciate that even our smaller facilities which aren’t as developed as they could be are better than the ones which Rwandans work in.
I think that so far, the biggest lesson I have learned is forgiveness. It amazes me how a country of people driven to war and murder have managed to forgive each other about the events of the past. Forgiveness is a valuable lesson that many people have yet to learn. Life is too short to waste your energy on hatred of others for something that already happened. I hope that Rwanda continues to shape me to be a better person and maybe some day I could be someone’s inspiration for a better future.
It was eggs for breakfast this morning and then we drove back to the church to where there is also a vocational training college. We were greeted by Fred, the manager of the college who explained that the students were mostly ex-street kids and in particular, some of the young women had previously been sex workers. Now they are training as hairdressers, welders, sewers, carpenters and masonry workers so they now have a strong chance of what we in Scotland call a “positive destination”. It was fascinating to hear about the ethos of the education. I mistakenly assumed that it would be very much an “old school” ethos with punishments, blame etc. but instead it is actually exactly the same as the ethos at KHS. The line “what can we do to help you” is a common one and when folk are not attending, they examine the barriers to them doing so and try to remove them as best they can.
We met the students and after a few introductions we did some tribal dancing with lots of drumming and singing. A number of us were pulled onto the dance floor so I made a suitable prat of myself throwing some shapes. Afterwards it was our turn so I sang “The Jeely Piece Song”, Lauren danced (so wonderfully and so bravely again!) and then we all sang “500 Miles”. The “da da dum” repeats went down a treat. After thrashing us at volleyball (I was spectacularly dreadful but very much enjoyed the game), we served them lunch and took our leave. It was great to see how people are making progress with people who have been in quite negative situations.
In the afternoon we met some women who have formed a craft cooperative. They make various items of jewellery and clothing with the support of Comfort International and the are all widows or orphans of the genocide. I was interested as to whether it had been common for women to work prior to the genocide and right enough, that had indeed not been the case. The fact that so many men had been killed really forced these women into earning to support themselves and their families. I also got the impression that the social side of the cooperative was equally important as the financial side as they all have similar stories and therefore gain the support and community of the friends and co-workers.
The first street kids project we visited, we still had our British awkwardness hanging over us like a fine Scottish Haar. They quickly blew this away with their infectious laughter and sense of fun. My proudest moment that morning was the validation that I peeled potatoes well. To be fair, this was with a single blunt blade, and there were MANY potatoes.
I could write an epic novel on all the wonderful tiny little things that I am proud of as I look at our KHS bairns. The compassion they have for the people who share unimaginable horror stories of what has happened to them, the way they scoop up mischievous toddlers, how they thank the “house Mama” for their hospitality and their growing confidence in mastering conversational Kinyarwandan. Trying, and loving new foods. Noticing how they brace themselves to get up in front of a room full of people they do not know, in a culture they are just learning about, and giving it laldy to the Gay Gordons even though they haven’t danced it since Primary 7. The three pupils ordering, paying and carrying a mass order in a bustling dusty market. Our lovely S5 highland dancer kicking up a storm. Listening to phone calls home as they excitedly share with loved ones what they have been up to. I can currently hear the plucking of a Ukulele and laughter drifting across the communal area as a heated game of Uno unfolds.
In the afternoon, David took us to a project rehousing people in the hills outside Kigali. On the way we stopped into a market to by bananas, tatties, and cassava for the people. It was a proper local market with lots of different items being sold and negotiations occurring left, right and centre. Kieron, Ben, Gillian and I handled the produce while David and Gavin negotiated prices. The sight of the “muzungus” struggling with massive sacks of food caused great hilarity amongst the assembled throng – particularly when I fell over.
We arrived at the project to the sort of audience that we’re now starting to get used to. After some introductions they told us their stories. Esha was particularly excited to meet a Muslim lady who lived at the centre. She seemed absolutely lovely and someone who “calls a spade a spade” in the vein of Miss. Diamond back at Kirkcaldy High. Half way through our visit she had to chase some kids away with a broom!
After we got through the rest of the exhibits we had lunch back at the guest house consisting of sandwiches with egg, salad and garlic with some chips which were basically like what we have in Scotland. We then got back on the bus and we started to make our way to Nduba which is a poorer region of Kigali. On the way there we went to the market and we bought several sacks of food consisting of cassavas, bananas and Irish sweet potatoes (tatties). I had the lovely job of handing the money over to the people. I had to use my mental maths skills (which are completely terrible) to calculate how much I had to give them. I eventually did it and I returned to the bus to see that most of the seats were occupied by sacks of food.
Once we got back eventually we had a lovely dinner of spaghetti, meatballs and pizza (which had pineapple and ham on it), then some of the group went to the local shop close to the guest house.
The charity we are working with here is “Comfort Rwanda” and is a Christian charity. That being the case, a visit to church would seem appropriate so we headed to the “Living Church” – a place used to receiving visitors such as ourselves. Now, you probably know that I don’t tend to attend church much these days and that my relationship with more “Pentecostal” style workshop has been iffy over the years for various reasons. However, I realised very quickly that I needed to put that prejudice to one side and go with the experience. We were welcomed very warmly by Pastor Paul and the fact that I’d turned up in my kilt attracted some amusement. We all introduced ourselves and the worship continued with sermons, readings, and testimonies. It was pretty tricky to understand what was going on, but it was lovely to see how into it and how enthusiastic all the locals were. They very kindly provided us with translators, so we had some insight into the messages being shared. It was mainly about finding and answering your calling, restoration to happiness and not being scared of the attacks others put your way. Whatever you believe, these seem to me as messages we can all get behind. There was a huge band of singers who were absolutely wonderful. It brought to mind some of the funk, soul and disco music that I love so much and that the roots of that music really do lie in this part of the world. The dancing was fantastic, and the passion being put in was incredible. I could have listened to them for much longer.
After a soup and sandwich lunch back at the digs we headed to the Gasanze Street kids project in another part of Kigali, not far from where we were yesterday. As before we arrived in celebrity style with lots of hugs, handshakes and held hands to accompany us to the building. We all introduced ourselves and this time many questions were asked.
We then got back to the accomodation for lunch, soup and a sandwich which was very nice, we then had a short rest before leaving to get the bus to Gasanze kids project around 2. This is where kids who have been living on the streets or not had the best start in life were brought to, to try and give them a more positive start and keep them off the streets. They were all so welcoming and friendly, as soon as we got off the bus they hugged us all and took us to the house. We all introduced ourselves and because they were so welcoming I think that made it easier for those of us who are not as
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