I’ve travelled a fair bit around Eastern Europe (yea, not as much as you Phil!), and I’ve really enjoyed seeing new places, new cultures, different currencies and languages. Places like Hungary, Poland and the Baltic States were quite accessible 5 years ago, even more so these days with the onset of the EU and dreaded Euro! But I found Kiev to be on another level. This country is very much in its infancy as a new country, in a way starting at 2004 rather than the same time as its other former Soviet colleagues. (Read the book mentioned below for more!).
The first thing you notice is the lack of spoken English. Now, fair enough, why would there be? Ukrainian and Russian being dominant. Other places have developed a tourist industry, so there are English signs, English speaking bar maids, shop keepers etc… You do have taxi drivers speaking a bit, to inform you of their special tourist rates!! With a country which has battled corruption for so long, I guess there is plenty to sort out with the locals before you worry about tourists…
It lacks tourist prices, which is great… your wee plastic metro tokens costing 5p, crazy buses taken you anywhere for 150 Hryvna. You get about 10 of them for your £1…
You notice that there are no drains. You notice the litter. You notice the crumbling soviet blocks of flats and the 4WD BMWs with tinted windows… You notice a people who are very private when in public – a hangover from those days of communism and corruption. A language which seems very abrupt even rude when used in shops, bars etc.
The influence of Russian culture is evident, especially with the fashions in Kiev. Black leather jackets for the men, knee high boots and heels for the women. You notice how beautiful the women are too! And how thin… which given the amount of root vegetables they eat is surprising!
The language is a huge barrier. Russian being hard to hear let alone read. But having said this the differences are what makes the place, any places. You hope that progress doesn’t mean standardisation (with the history of communism were this was evident you really hope not). Westernisation doesn’t necessarily mean better. Although there are the inevitable fast food outlets and Irish bars…
Sounds like an amazing trip. Good to hear that there are places the cancer of westernisation hasn’t encroached on to badly yet. I’m all for us moving closer together, but not at the expense of culture and tradition.